Millions of black-clad Shia pilgrims are converging on the holy city of Kerbala for the Arbaeen religious commemoration, the largest annual gathering of people anywhere on earth. Walking in long columns stretching back unbroken for as much as 50 miles, sleeping and eating in tents erected by supporters beside the road, the event has become an overwhelmingly powerful display of Shia belief and solidarity.
The Arbaeen coincides this year with the final defeat of Isis, the movement that slaughtered Shia in their tens of thousands and aimed to overthrow the Shia-dominated government in Baghdad. The Syrian army announced today that it has captured the last Isis-held town in Syria, Albu Kamal, its victory coming a few days after Isis was driven from western Iraq.
Arbaeen is the living symbol of the rise of the Iraqi Shia, a highly significant development in the Middle East, but it has happened only recently. Karim, 48, a tribal leader from Najaf, who provides free food for the pilgrims, recalls that when he first took part in an illegal Arbaeen walk under Saddam Hussein, “we had to take a roundabout route by the river [Euphrates] and try to keep hidden because, if we were caught, we would put in prison or executed”.
The Arbaeen has provided many modern-day Shia martyrs, murdered by Saddam Hussein, al-Qaeda and Isis, but its purpose is to mourn the martyrdom of Imam Hussein, the revered Shia leader, killed in the battle for Kerbala in AD680. The long ritual walk to his golden-domed shrine in that city – some walkers spend 10 or 12 days on the road from Basra or Kirkuk, others two or three days from Najaf – comes on the 40th day of the mourning period as religious fervour reaches its peak among the faithful.
Shia cities, towns and villages all over Iraq empty out during a 20-day period as their people take to the roads in an elaborately organised and well protected mass movement not seen anywhere else in the world. Estimates vary of the total attending, from highs of 15-17 million to a low of 6-7 million, but it includes at least two million Iranians whose numbers are easier to calculate because they require documentation to enter Iraq. Mohammed al-Hilli, the author of a book entitled The Arbaeen: the Walk, says that “the city of Kerbala can only contain two or three million people at one time, but, since pilgrims are coming and going over a long time, the total attending will be much higher.”
Shia Muslim pilgrims gather for the Arbaeen religious festival
The pilgrims carry black, green, red and white flags, with the black flag of mourning for Imam Hussein by far the most common. Vast numbers of them decorate permanent brick buildings and temporary tents which are used for praying, eating and sleeping along the three main routes leading to Kerbala. Once pilgrims were lucky if they got rice and bean stew – “there was nothing but muddy water to drink” recalls one early participant – but everything is now highly organised with copious supplies of food, small clinics and even dentists all working for free. The care of pilgrims is regarded as a religious duty. 
Safar is the second month of the Islamic calendar. It is marked with many important events in Islamic history but one of the most important of these is Arbaeen (20th Safar). In Arabic language it means forty and in Islamic history it marks the 40th day of mourning period following Ashura, the 10th of Muharram when Hussain ibn Ali (AlaihisSalam), the grandson of the Holy Prophet Muhammad (ṣallā llāhu ʿalayhi wasallam) was killed and beheaded along with his family members and companions by the army of Yazid in 61 Hijri. In this month, millions of people from around the globe gather in Iraq’s holiest city of Karbala to commemorate Arbaeen and to pay tribute to the martyrs of Karbala.
Arbaeen pilgrimage or Arbaeen walk is widely recognised as the single largest annual peaceful gathering in the world where people swarm together and walk towards the shrines of Imam Husain (AlaihisSalam) and Hazrat Gazi Abbas (AlaihisSalam) to pay tribute to their greatest sacrifice. The son of Bibi Fatima (AlaihisSalam) and Imam Ali (AlaihisSalam) left an everlasting legacy 1378 years ago which is still inspiring the mankind and will keep on inspiring till the existence of this world. This is not an ordinary journey and neither those people are ordinary who get the opportunity to take a part in this spiritual walk. The people who take part in this walk are called Zair-e-Imam Hussain (visitors of Imam Hussain) (AlaihisSalam).
Arbaeen is marked with long walks – from Najaf ul Ashraf or Basra to Karbala-e-Moalla. People come from different parts of the world belong to different colours, cultures, races and sects. They make their journey on foot. The journey from Najaf to Karbala is almost 85kms and it takes about 3 to 4 days, whereas from Basra it is about 500kms. Zaireen (pilgrims) coming from Najaf-al-Ashraf start their journey from the shrine of Imam Ali (AlaihisSalam) In this human crowd marching towards Karbala there is no discrimination of rich or poor, young or old, men or women. Children walk with parents in short steps, elderly who can barely walk cover this journey on wheelchairs, even the disabled hobble along, step-by-step, supported by nothing but crutches and an iron will to voyage and to salute Imam Hussain (AlaihisSalam). The only one thing which is common in all these people is that every eye is moist, every heart is torn with grief and they are all chanting ‘Labbaik Ya Hussain (AlaihisSalam)’ in one voice. They all believe that Imam Hussein (AlaihisSalam) is a universal, borderless, and meta-religious symbol of freedom and compassion.
During Saddam's era this pilgrimage was banned. At that time people used to perform it secretly and their number was too low. It was revived when his government was toppled in 2003 and since then the number of Zaireen started to increase every year. Last year this number was more than 20 million even against the threats of ISIS (Islamic State of Iraq and Syria). This year it is estimated that more than 25 million Zaireen are visiting Karbala.
Under ordinary conditions, it seems impossible to make arrangements for more than 20 million people travelling this long. But surprisingly, thousands of local people gathered to help these visitors and the level of service they provide is unprecedented. They set up thousands of tents with makeshift kitchens to serve these Zaireen. These tents are called Mawakebs which are devised with the aim of providing accommodation, food, beverage, medical services and practically anything the pilgrims could possibly need to complete their spiritual journey. Dwellers render their services without any charge and try to provide maximum comfort to the Zaireen. If someone gets tired mid way, then the houses on way open their doors to comfort him and the owners feel themselves privileged to be at their service. These houses and Mawakebs have the best facilities to fulfil the needs of Zaireen.
Zaireen do not need to carry anything on this journey except the clothes and shoes they wear. What is more astonishing is that Mawakeb organizers beg these pilgrims to accept their hospitality. They intercept their path and plead them. They provide them every minor thing like tissue paper, tooth pick etc. Their cloths are washed and ironed, shoes are mended and all of course complimentary. Those who have nothing to offer, serve them by massaging their feet and legs. In short they do not leave even a single opportunity to serve them. They consider the acceptance of their offers as a bestowing honour on them. After witnessing such love and passion of these service providers one is left in bewilderment that either these are humans or angels disguised as service providers.
Number forty is mystic in Theosophy. According to the Islamic culture if someone practices a good deed constantly during forty days, it would be his inseparable attribute and lead to descending of Allah's blessing.
In some religions forty days and forty nights praying has been special position. When Prophet Musa / Moses (pbuh) prayed forty nights; found the ability to hear the words of Allah (SWT),
"And when We appointed a time of forty nights with Musa, then you took the calf (for a god) after him and you were unjust." [Glorious Quran 2:51]
Prophet Muhammad (saw) said, "Whoever dedicates himself to Allah (SWT) for forty days, will find springs of wisdom sprout out of his heart and flow on his tongue." Commemorating of the fortieth day of deeds by their family and giving alms is one of the common customs among some of the Muslims.
The 40th [Arbaeen (Arbayeen) or Chehlum] marks an important turning point in the movement of Karbala (Kerbala). This day, which is no less important to the day of Ashura (Aashura/Ashurah) is important for many reasons - the prime being that the Ahlul Bayt reached the land of Karbala on this day and performed the visitation to Sayyid ash-Shuhada al-Husayn (as) and the loyal family and friends who gave their life for the cause of Islam. Although the historians differ on when this event transpired; some say it was in the same year of the massacre in Karbala in the year 61 AH, whilst other say it was in the following year 62 AH. Whatever the case, the atrocities and difficulties which the family of Prophet Muhammad (saw) was put through in the court of Yazid and the long ride to Karbala culminated on the 20th of Safar on the empty plains of Karbala.
According to most widely accepted traditions, the family of Prophet Muhammad (saw) remained in captivity for about a year in Damascus by Yazid, the Umayyad Caliph. After one year when the ruler of Shaam (Syria) were forced to release them, Bibi Zainab (sa) said to Imam Ali ibn al-Husayn as-Sajjad (as) that she wanted to go back to Karbala to mourn his brother and all the martyrs of Karbala. The same was desired by other women of this caravan and Imam Ali ibn al-Husayn as-Sajjad (as) directed them towards Karbala. The grave of Imam Husayn Ibn Ali (as) was not desolate as some may expect. Rather, as the Ahlul Bayt were approaching Karbala, there were a few people already at the grave, marking his martyrdom with tears. The individual, who had been a companion of Prophet Muhammad (saw) - Jabir ibne Abdullah al-Ansari (who at this point was blind) - along with his assistant (Atiyya bin Saad), had made the trek from Madina to the place of martyrdom of his Imam and master, Imam Husayn Ibn Ali (as). Jabir ibne Abdullah al-Ansari (ra) called out to his Imam, "I testify that you are the son of the Seal of the Prophets, the son of the Master of the Faithful, the son of the inseparable ally of piety, the descendant of guidance." His servant, Atiyya bin Saad noted to him that he could see a caravan of people in the distance and they were approaching this sacred site. As they approached, they realized that this was none other than the caravan of present Imam, Ali ibn al-Husayn as-Sajjad (as) with the other family members and assistants!
The historians note that at this point, Jabir ibne Abdullah al-Ansari (ra) and his assistant, Atiyya bin Saad, moved out of the way so that the women of the Ahlul Bayt and the others could show their grief at the sacred grave in privacy and according to reports, the heads of the martyrs were also buried at this point in time - as before leaving Shaam (Syria), they were given back the sacred heads of the martyrs| What is Arbaeen? |
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